Notes from the trail

I’ve done this route six times now, and it continues to feel different from most alpine treks in India. There’s a quietness to the trail that is hard to find elsewhere, where entire days can pass without seeing another group. Apart from the occasional shepherd or grazing yaks, the landscape feels open and undisturbed, and that sense of solitude becomes one of the most memorable parts of the journey.

The moment that stays with me most is sunrise from Dafey Bhir, the highest point of the trek. As the first light hits the Kanchenjunga massif from the Indian side, the Everest and Makalu ranges begin to appear across Nepal in a way that feels unexpectedly close and incredibly dramatic. The mountains seem to rise all at once, filling the horizon with scale and depth, and it’s one of those moments that naturally slows everything down.

Lampokhari and the surrounding alpine lakes form the heart of this journey for me. These lake basins carry a timeless quality shaped by grazing yaks, shifting weather, and wide alpine meadows that stretch quietly in every direction. The colours of the lakes change throughout the day, and time spent here often becomes less about movement and more about simply being present in the landscape.

Late March and April add another layer to the experience. The forests leading toward the alpine basin come alive with rhododendron bloom, with bursts of colour appearing unexpectedly along the trail before the terrain opens into high-altitude meadows. That transition from forest to alpine country is something I always look forward to on this route.

Darap, where the trek begins and ends, holds its own special place in the journey. The homestay experience feels deeply local, with simple food, warm hospitality, and evenings often shared over tongba rather than itinerary discussions. It creates a gentle entry into the trek and an equally meaningful return.

What I appreciate most about this route is how complete it feels. Forest, alpine pasture, and lake basins unfold gradually while Kanchenjunga remains a quiet presence throughout, with sweeping views of the Everest and Makalu massifs appearing across the Nepal skyline. Passing through Pelling on either side of the journey also allows for an easy extension without disrupting the natural rhythm of the trek.

This remains one of my top three treks in India, not because of a single highlight but because of the continuity of experience it offers. It is immersive, quiet, and expansive in ways that stay with you long after the trail ends.